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Since the early 20th century, films have been an indispensable form of entertainment for the masses, with Hollywood's charming idols often becoming fashion leaders. From Marlene Dietrich's androgynous style in 'Der blaue Engel' to Audrey Hepburn's Givenchy little black dress in 'Breakfast at Tiffany's,' their iconic images on the silver screen have left us with countless fantastic fashion moments.
Similarly, through the widespread dissemination of images, the costumes in films and the fashion attitudes they advocate often bring endless inspiration to the fashion industry, creating popular fashion trends that sweep the globe.
1. Der blaue Engel (The Blue Angel)
Actress Marlene Dietrich was famous for her daring and individualistic style of clothing. After appearing in several films, Dietrich was noticed by director Josef von Sternberg in 1929. Captivated by her charm, Sternberg invited her to play the imperious nightclub singer Lola Lola in "Der blaue Engel."
In the film, Dietrich wore a top hat, a custom-made tailcoat with a pointed collar, and black stockings, using her allure to command power traditionally held by men.
Subsequently, she replicated the image of Lola in several other films, bringing the gender-blurring culture of accepting cross-dressing to Hollywood. Dietrich not only wore trousers on the screen but also appeared in public or in private, thereby popularizing "trousers" for women, although they were still limited to casual wear.
The men's clothing she wore, such as tailcoat trouser suits, military waterproof jackets, flat rough leather shoes, and tweed hats, all became classic fashion items, some of which became popular decades later.
2. Letty Lynton
The white ruffled evening gown worn by Joan Crawford in Clarence Brown's thriller "Letty Lynton" was emulated by the mass market, and this dress was called the "butterfly sleeve" long dress. Padded shoulders became the most fashionable style at the time. This phenomenon is also evidence that Hollywood's advantage gradually overcame Parisian fashion.
The long dress was designed by MGM's chief costume designer, Gilbert Adrian, and was imitated by various films and designers throughout the 1930s.
The long skirt was made of multiple layers of silk chiffon and was very popular with its ankle-length style, which also influenced European fashion. The popularity of this gown in Paris not only existed after its appearance in the film, but also continued after the clothing was sold in mass quantities in New York.
In addition, fashion photography in "Vogue" magazine began to emulate movie stills, using dreamy props and complex lighting, thereby promoting clothing to a wider readership. The American garment industry responded quickly, and the mass production of clothing driven by movies became possible.
3. A Place in the Sun
Influential Hollywood costume designer Helen Rose reinvented Christian Dior's New Look fashion to create the "sweetheart dress" - a dress featuring a heart-shaped bodice, a narrow waist, and a voluminous skirt, thereby making it her signature style.
This dress was initially worn by Elizabeth Taylor in the film "Father of the Bride," signifying Taylor's character's transformation from a college girl style with plaid shirts, tweed skirts, and knee-high pants of the "Bobby Soxer" to a little woman.
The following year, Taylor played a girl entering high society in "A Place in the Sun." The costumes for this film were designed by Rose's strong rival, Edith Head.
Head designed two gowns, both of which were strapless designs with boned bodices. The first gown, made of white satin, was used for promotional stills, and the other gown, with a heart-shaped bodice and a light green overlay of white chiffon, brought Head's talents to the attention of the general public.
Head understood the risks of leading and following fashion trends, as once the film was no longer in theaters, the clothing faced the risk of becoming outdated.
However, the gown Head designed for Taylor received praise from fashion media and was exposed to a wider audience. It was then replicated by manufacturers in large quantities, becoming an enduring fashion style in America. Compared to Dior's lackluster curve-hugging skirts, and the subsequent body-hugging pencil skirts and sheath dresses, this waist-cinched bell-shaped skirt was more popular among mid-market consumers.
This style shaped a non-threatening feminine delicacy, highlighting the youthful vitality of the wearer. It was therefore very suitable for girls to wear at high school proms, as this ceremonial moment marks the transition from innocent girlhood to sexual maturity. The sweetheart dress was also used to highlight the healthy "girl next door" characteristic.
4. Breakfast at Tiffany's
In post-war Hollywood, female charm was seen as coming from sexiness rather than elegance, but that changed after Audrey Hepburn starred in her first American movie "Roman Holiday" in 1953. In 1954, she wore a series of impressive outfits in "Sabrina," solidifying her status as an enduring fashion icon.
In 1957, Hepburn starred in "Funny Face." She did not want to rely on Hollywood costume designer Edith Head for her movie costumes, so she consulted fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy, marking the beginning of their long-term collaboration.
Their collaboration reached great success in the movie "Breakfast at Tiffany's." In the movie, Hepburn wore the iconic little black dress. The loose, waistless style and simple elegance she adopted from Givenchy's designs were a precursor to the minimalist era of the 1960s.
The clothing that Givenchy designed for Hepburn was completely different from the stiff styles created by Christian Dior's tight corsets. Givenchy brought a modern touch to fashion, avoiding external decorations and using simple lines for embellishment. His streamlined suits used large pieces of bright colors, fastened with a button or fabric fold, embodying a delicate and casual charm.
Hepburn incorporated fashion into her personal wardrobe and applied single styles to her daily wear. She often created her own combinations, such as pairing a belted waterproof coat with Capri pants, layered with a black turtleneck sweater and cardigan, and completed the look with ballet flats and a knotted headscarf.
Hepburn's influence also extended beyond movie audiences. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy admired Hepburn's style and adopted her oversized sunglasses, Givenchy's iconic boat neckline, and fitted waist cuts.
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